1 post tagged “nakagusuku”
During long stretches of Okinawan history, the principalities had cause to fear each other. For defense, the local lords built castles. Some of these castles, like Shuri, were utterly devastated multiple times, then rebuilt over the years. Others, like Nakagusuku, lived on as ruins after their utility passed.
The story of this particular ruin is quite tragic. Its lord, Gosamaru, learned that a rival (Amawari of Katsuren) was fomenting rebellion against the king. Though Gosamaru moved to bolster his military forces, Amawari chose the more cunning path. He convinced the king, Sho Taikyu, that the lord of Nakagusuku was the one planning an uprising. After all, wasn't he mobilizing men and arms?
The king moved against Gosamaru, and rather than fight his liege, Nakagusuku's lord committed suicide. Sad story, no?
[Of course, the denouement involves some comeuppance: it's awfully tough to convince a king that the guy who just killed himself rather than fight you was the troublemaker. Amawari fell at his own castle shortly thereafter.]
Today, you can relive these good times, and even visit Gosamaru's grave, one of the oldest turtleback tombs in all of Okinawa. When entering the park, you're greeted by the first of many gajuumaru (banyan) trees. If the castle itself weren't so impressive, the nature surround it might become the focus.
The southern entrance of Nakagusuku is where visitors first spot the castle walls today. Historically, the main gate was on the other side.
By any standard, the stonework is very impressive.
I find the incongruities intriguing, like the places where irregular stone walls meet symmetrical ones.
The views from the castle walls are spectacular. Centuries pre-DiCaprio, you can imagine Gosamaru standing here, looking out at the western shore and shouting the uchinaaguchi equivalent of "I'm the lord of all I survey!"
At least the lord of Nakagusuku went out on his own terms. There may (or may not) be a lesson there.
